Prepare the dried chiles: Place the ancho, guajillo, and chipotle chiles in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Let them soak for 20 minutes until they are soft and pliable. The water will turn a deep, rusty red and smell sweetly smoky. Drain the chiles, reserving 125 ml of the soaking liquid, then blend the softened chiles with the reserved liquid until you have a smooth, dark red paste.

Brown the beef in batches: Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add half the beef cubes in a single layer—do not crowd the pan. Let them sear undisturbed for 3-4 minutes until the underside is a deep, mahogany brown and releases easily from the pan. Flip and brown the other side. Transfer the browned beef to a plate. The sound of the beef hitting the hot oil should be a vigorous sizzle. Repeat with the remaining oil and beef.

Sweat the aromatics: Reduce the heat to medium. Add the diced onions to the pot and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom. Cook for 5-6 minutes until the onions are soft, translucent, and smell sweet. Add the minced garlic and cook for 1 minute until fragrant, stirring constantly so it doesn't burn.

Build the flavour base: Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, allowing it to darken to a rusty brick colour and smell intensely savoury. Add the ground cumin, smoked paprika, and dried oregano, stirring for 30 seconds until the spices are toasted and aromatic. Your kitchen will now smell wonderfully complex.

Combine everything: Return the browned beef and any accumulated juices to the pot. Pour in the chile paste, beef stock, chopped tomatoes, salt, black pepper, apple cider vinegar, and bay leaves. Stir everything together, ensuring the beef is mostly submerged. Bring the chili to a gentle boil—you’ll see small bubbles breaking the surface—then immediately reduce the heat to low.

Simmer low and slow: Cover the pot with a lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape. Let it simmer gently for 2 hours to 2 hours 30 minutes. The liquid should be barely trembling, not roaring. Stir occasionally, especially towards the end, to prevent sticking. The chili is ready when the beef is fork-tender, pulling apart with minimal pressure, and the sauce has thickened to a glossy, rich consistency that coats the back of a spoon. The colour will be a deep, earthy brick red.

Rest and adjust: Remove the pot from the heat. Discard the bay leaves. Let the chili rest, uncovered, for 10-15 minutes. This allows the flavours to settle and the sauce to thicken further. Taste and adjust seasoning with more salt, pepper, or a splash of vinegar if needed for brightness.