Prepare the chicken: Season the chicken thighs generously with salt and pepper. Heat one tablespoon of olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high flame. Place the chicken in the pan and let it sear undisturbed for 4-5 minutes, until the underside is a deep golden brown. Flip and cook for another 4 minutes. The kitchen will fill with the savoury scent of browning meat. Remove the chicken to a plate and set aside.

Build the aromatic base: Reduce the heat to medium and add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Tip in the diced onion and stir, scraping up any browned bits from the pan. Cook for 5-6 minutes, until the onion turns translucent and soft, and its sharp raw smell mellows into a sweet fragrance. Add the minced garlic, cumin, smoked paprika, and oregano. Stir constantly for 30 seconds until the spices become fragrant and deepen in colour—you'll smell a warm, toasty aroma.

Simmer the sauce: Pour in the chopped tomatoes, chicken stock, and a pinch of salt. Bring the mixture to a gentle bubble, then reduce the heat to low. Nestle the seared chicken thighs back into the sauce. Cover and let it simmer for 15-20 minutes, until the chicken is fork-tender and the sauce has thickened slightly, turning a rich brick-red hue. The smell at this stage is deeply aromatic, with notes of tomato and earthy spice.

Shred the chicken and finish the cream sauce: Remove the chicken to a cutting board. Using two forks, shred the meat into bite-sized pieces—you'll hear the satisfying pull of tender fibres. Return the shredded chicken to the pan. Stir in the double cream and softened cream cheese, whisking gently until the cream cheese melts and the sauce turns pale, velvety, and glossy. Taste and adjust the seasoning. The sauce should coat the back of a spoon.

Assemble the enchiladas: Preheat your oven to 180°C (fan). Lightly grease a large baking dish (about 30x20cm). Warm the tortillas briefly in the microwave or a dry pan so they become pliable. Spoon a generous line of the creamy chicken mixture down the centre of each tortilla. Roll tightly and place seam-side down in the dish, snugly against each other. You should fit about 10-12 enchiladas in a single layer.

Top and bake: Pour any remaining sauce from the pan over the rolled enchiladas. Sprinkle the grated cheddar cheese evenly over the top. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling and golden in spots, and the sauce is visibly simmering around the edges. The smell at this point is irresistible—rich, cheesy, and slightly smoky.

Rest and serve: Remove the dish from the oven and let it rest for 5 minutes. This allows the filling to set slightly so the enchiladas hold their shape when served. Garnish with fresh coriander and sliced green chillies if you wish. The first cut into the dish reveals a creamy, steaming interior.